Aims
And
Objectives
The
main
objective
was
to
conduct
a
risk
assessment
of
the
expedition
route
with
a
view
of
returning
to
Nigeria
in
2004
to
conduct
a
full
expedition.It
was
our
intention
to
do
this
by
retracing
the
route
taken
by
Richard
Lander
from
Badagry
on
the
South
coast
to
New
Bussa
in
the
North.
Upon
our
arrival
to
make
contact
with
the
Emir
to
ascertain
the
existence
of
a
silver
commemorative
coin,
given
by
Richard
to
the
Emir
of
Bussa
in
1830.
If
time
permitted
to
recee
the
Niger
heading
South
and
to
visit
Fernando
Po
to
locate
the
grave
of
Richard
Lander.
Our
aim
was
to
build
positive
relations
with
both
local
and
influential
people
to
promote
the
expedition
within
Nigeria
which
will
be
called
:
''The
Goodwill
Expedition".
The
Beginning
And
Arrival
At
Lagos
Airport

On
the
1st
March
2002
with
a
certain
amount
of
apprehension
we
all
set
off
from
Gatwick
to
Lagos.
I
knew
Dave,
Viv
and
Bryan
from
previous
trips
and
knew
they
could
be
relied
upon.The
new
member
of
the
team
was
Ken
whom
I
had
met
on
only
two
previous
occasions
.
I
had
been
immediately
impressed
with
him
and
knew
straight
away
his
importance
of
being
with
us
on
this
trip.
His
main
advice
to
me
which
he
repeated
on
many
occasions
‘Steve,
just
keep
an
open
mind!
It
is
necessary
to
obtain
a
written
invitation
from
a
Nigerian
resident
in
which
to
undertake
any
form
of
expedition.
In
our
case,
Ken
contacted
a
relative
called
Mr.
Benn
Onweuegbusi,
a
barrister
within
the
Supreme
Court
of
Nigeria
who
kindly
sent
the
required
invitation,
essential
when
applying
for
the
visa.
Lagos
airport
had
been
immortalized
with
a
television
series
a
few
years
ago
so
we
were
expecting
unique
difficulties.
Ken
was
a
regular
at
this
location
and
through
his
direction
we
maneuvered
ourselves
through
all
the
access
and
control
points
with
ease.
It
was
a
pleasure
to
witness
a
master
at
work
as
Ken
sought
the
most
senior
official,
who
helped
us
to
progress
through
the
check
points
with
ease
,complete
with
baggage.
We
were
met
by
an
old
University
friend
of
Kens'
called
Sam
together
with
his
prized
mini
bus.
Sam
welcomed
us
with
a
smile,
he
was
small
in
stature
and
had
a
slight
limp
as
a
result
of
an
accident
many
years
ago.
It
was
obvious
by
their
greeting
that
Ken
and
Sam
were
good
friends.
Ken
introduced
us
and
I
felt
happy
with
his
choice
of
driver.
However,
driving
in
Nigeria
was
very
different
from
London
as
we
discovered
in
the
days
to
come.
We
had
arranged
to
hire
both
Sam
and
bus
for
the
next
two
weeks.
At
a
hotly
negotiated
session
later
that
evening
a
fee
had
been
agreed
with
Sam.
On
closer
examination
of
his
van,
it
could
be
seen
that
the
windows
had
been
cut
out
from
what
was
once
a
van.
The
rear
seats
had
been
added
later
on,
I
noticed
the
tube
steel
along
the
edges
of
the
seats
instead
of
foam.
No
seat
belts
were
visible
and
the
idea
of
air
conditioning
had
instantly
evaporated.
This
was
to
be
our
main
method
of
transport
for
the
next
1500
Km.
It
was
dark
as
we
left
the
airport
and
the
images
a
new
arrival
to
Lagos
has
apparently
stays
with
you
for
some
time.
As
we
drove
through
congested
streets
at
a
slow
speed
I
could
see
the
dark
shadows
of
many
people.
Walking
and
talking,
sitting
and
watching,
thousands
of
people
by
the
road
side
going
about
their
everyday
business.
Occasionally
their
faces
would
light
up
as
they
passed
a
fire
glowing
from
an
oil
drum.
There
were
many
such
fires
along
the
roadside
providing
both
warmth
and
light
to
these
street
people.
With
over
10
million
people
living
within
the
city
itself
you
soon
understand
the
difficulties
the
people
of
Lagos
have
to
endure.
The
Team
Meet
Mike
Okiro
'Commissioner
Of
Police'

We
spent
Four
days
in
Lagos
planning
and
preparing
for
our
departure.
Ken
had
made
arrangements
for
us
to
meet
Mr.
Mike
Okiro,
Commissioner
of
Police
for
the
State
of
Lagos.
After
a
wait
outside
his
office
we
all
went
inside
where
he
was
still
involved
with
another
meeting.
The
office
walls
were
lined
with
wooden
panels
and
was
impressive.
Our
turn
to
speak
came
and
I
outlined
the
reason
for
our
visit
with
an
emphasis
on
the
‘goodwill’
.
I
had
conducted
my
research
through
the
wonders
of
the
Internet
prior
to
our
visit
to
Nigeria.
Discussions
with
Ken
indicated
he
may
offer
Police
Protection
during
our
stay,
the
research
suggested
the
relationship
between
the
police
and
public
in
Lagos
is
somewhat
different
to
our
experience
within
the
UK.
We
had
decided
if
offered
protection,
I
would
thank
the
Commissioner
but
preferred
they
continue
policing
where
they
are
obviously
needed.
We
gave
various
gifts
to
Mr.
Mike
Okiro
as
a
gesture
of
goodwill,
related
our
commiseration's
to
the
families
of
the
people
who
perished
in
the
recent
ammunitions
explosion,
thanked
him
for
his
time
and
left.
With
the
many
issues
Mr.
Okiro
was
dealing
with
at
this
most
difficult
time
it
was
good
of
him
to
see
us.
Our
thanks
again
to
Ken
who
was
able
to
make
these
arrangements.
Robbers
and
Rotarians
During
the
next
few
days
in
Lagos
we
continued
our
efforts
in
building
positive
relations
with
people.
One
such
example
was
attending
a
Rotary
Club
meeting
in
Lagos,
although
not
a
member
himself
Bryan
was
referred
by
a
friend.
With
Dave
and
Ken
absent
from
the
group
we
drove
to
Victoria
island
in
Sam's
bus.
It
was
obvious
that
stationary
in
a
traffic
jam
allowed
street
traders
to
ply
their
goods
far
easier.
It
was
here
that
two
such
beggars
jumped
up
to
both
the
drivers
side
and
my
side
at
the
front
windows
demanding
money.
I
gave
both
beggars
300
Nira
the
equivalent
of
about
£3,
a
drug
crazed
look
in
their
eyes
was
a
little
worrying.
When
the
beggar
next
to
Sam
began
threatening
a
knife
I
lost
my
cool
and
starting
shouting.
They
both
suddenly
jumped
off
the
bus
and
we
continued
on
our
way.
Sam
later
stated
that
this
was
the
first
time
he
had
experienced
such
an
incident
in
Lagos.
He
also
explained
how
important
it
was
not
to
retaliate
with
such
people,
desperate
and
homeless
they
could
react
badly
towards
such
action.
To
talk
with
them
and
offer
‘something’
without
the
need
for
violence
could
in
fact
save
your
‘life’.
Within
20
minutes
we
were
at
the
Rotary
Club
meeting
singing
about
brotherly
love
and
‘goodwill
to’
fellow
man.
Viv,
Bryan
and
Ken
often
recall
that
meeting
with
barristers,
bankers
and
smartly
dressed
Lagos
business
officials.
I
believe
it
was
the
unaccompanied
singing
of
My
Grandfather’s
Clock
or
My
Bonny
Lies
Over
the
Ocean
which
brings
a
smile
to
each
of
our
faces!
However,
it
was
an
excellent
opportunity
to
meet
these
men
and
we
exchanged
business
cards
accordingly.
Lagos
museum
was
a
little
disappointing
with
very
few
exhibits,
however
I
did
learn
about
the
Benin
bronzes.
During
1897
the
British
conducted
a
trading
expedition
and
visited
Benin,
after
the
advance
party
were
killed
by
the
locals,
the
British
massacred
the
city
stealing
all
the
prized
bronzes.
These
bronzes
have
since
been
displayed
within
the
British
Museum,
despite
numerous
attempts
by
Nigeria
to
have
them
returned.It
would
appear
Nigeria
needs
to
convince
the
British
Museum
that
should
the
bronzes
be
returned
they
would
be
displayed
in
a
secure
environment
.
I
fear
this
dilemma
will
run
for
a
few
more
years
to
come
but
feel
a
gesture
of
the
return
of
a
single
Benin
Bronze
would
be
a
positive
move
by
the
British
Museum.
The
Kola
Nut
Ceremony

It
was
a
welcome
pleasure
to
meet
Ken’s
family
in
Lagos,
his
Mother
made
us
dinner
and
we
met
some
of
Kens'
university
friends.
We
discussed
our
proposed
journey
together
with
the
hopes
for
2004,
as
the
light
dimmed
we
tied
our
head
torches
onto
the
heads
of
bottles
to
talk
over
our
map
and
of
our
proposed
journey.
Before
we
departed
Lagos
we
were
invited
to
visit
an
Uncle
of
Ken’s
on
the
outskirts
of
Lagos.
It
was
a
difficult
house
to
find
in
a
poorly
lit
street
but
eventually
located
an
impressive
house.
We
were
all
invited
into
a
large
living
room
and
took
our
seats
in
armchairs
and
sofas
situated
around
the
edge
of
the
room
facing
inwards.
Ken's
Aunt
offered
beers
and
we
readily
accepted,
we
met
two
young
men
smartly
dressed
in
traditional
Nigerian
clothes,
which
looked
cool
to
wear
and
brightly
coloured.
They
were
both
cousins
of
Kens',
one
of
whom
had
recently
qualified
as
a
barrister
in
the
UK
Ken
indicated
that
his
Uncle
was
about
to
come
downstairs
and
that
he
was
a
highly
respected
person
within
his
community
i.e.
he
was
a
‘Chief’.
Therefore
as
a
mark
of
our
respect
we
should
address
him
as
Nwa-ka-Ibe'e
which
translates
into
'One
who
is
greater
than
his
friends'
I
realized
he
was
serious
and
it
was
essential
we
adhere
to
his
instructions.
As
he
entered
the
room
and
took
his
seat
next
to
mine,
I
noticed
it
was
raised
slightly
giving
a
heightened
position.
He
shook
all
our
hands
and
after
a
few
minutes
began
a
Kola
nut
ceremony.
As
he
spoke
of
‘God’,
the
British
and
praying
for
our
safe
return
home,
I
was
moved
at
this
humble
yet
traditional
welcome.
It
contained
words
which
cut
through
race
and
cultures
and
left
a
message
of
prayer,
faith
and
kindness
to
fellow
man.
To
summon
his
wife
Nwa-ka-Ibe'e
pressed
a
buzzer
positioned
in
the
side
of
his
seat,
a
smartly
dressed
lady
appeared
from
the
kitchen
with
a
bowl
to
clean
his
hands.
Part
of
the
ceremony
involved
the
eating
of
the
Kola
nut
or
Betel
nut.
As
we
all
took
a
small
piece
from
the
plate
and
placed
it
inside
our
mouths
we
all
shared
the
same
taste.
It
was
very
bitter
and
quite
unpleasant
but
we
all
politely
finished
the
nut
and
washed
it
down
with
beer.
I
liked
Kens'
Uncle
and
hoped
one
day
to
meet
him
again.
The
journey
back
to
the
hotel
that
night
lasted
about
90
minutes
and
we
all
kept
chatting
about
the
days
events
together
with
the
following
days
departure.
It
was
about
1a.m.
and
neither
of
us
felt
tired,
it
was
at
that
point
that
Ken
informed
us
of
the
side
effects
of
the
Kola
nut,
it
acts
as
a
stimulant
similar
to
the
Coca
leaf
in
Peru.
Who
needs
Red-Bull!
An
Important
Lesson
I
was
glad
to
leave
Lagos
as
we
departed
towards
Badagry
the
following
morning,
it
was
a
hot
and
claustrophobic
city
with
poor
infrastructure
and
too
many
people.
I
do
not
wish
to
dwell
on
our
bad
experiences
and
the
crime
within
the
City,
because
all
Cities
have
their
share
of
crime.
There
is
a
different
attitude
of
the
people
in
Lagos,
Ken
would
say
‘’There
is
English
time
and
African
time’’.
It
is
this
indifference
towards
time
keeping
that
can
be
frustrating.
It
was
here
where
I
also
learned
an
important
lesson,
Sam
would
often
be
abrupt
when
speaking
to
me,
I
liked
Sam
and
could
not
understand
why
on
occasions
he
would
speak
to
me
in
such
a
manner.
To
make
a
point
I
decided
to
speak
to
him
in
the
same
abrupt
way,
he
just
fell
about
laughing.
When
I
questioned
as
to
the
reasons
for
his
laughter
he
calmly
smiled
and
said
‘’
English
people
never
speak
like
that
only
African’s,
English
people
say
‘please’
and
‘thank
you’.’’
As
I
watched
Sam
speak
to
Ken
or
his
family
in
the
same
abrupt
manner
I
realised
my
error.
I
had
been
comparing
my
own
standards
to
Sam’s
and
thinking
his
manner
is
rude
when
in
fact
within
Nigeria
it
is
perfectly
normal
and
no
offence
is
indeed
meant.
Bar
Beach
Prior
to
my
departure
from
England
I
had
been
speaking
with
a
professional
Rock
and
Roll
group
called
'The
Jets'.I
had
approached
Bob
Cotton
together
with
his
brothers
Ray
and
Tony
to
consider
joining
the
expedition
and
possibly
playing
a
'gig',
either
in
New
Bussa
or
Lagos.
This
may
sound
like
a
bizarre
idea
but
it
would
focus
attention
and
promote
media
interest.
Therefore
Ken
suggested
we
visit
'Bar
Beach'
in
Lagos,
an
area
in
which
to
both
relax
and
enjoy
some
African
culture
in
the
way
of
food
and
music,
also
an
ideal
opportunity
to
seek
a
possible
location
for
'The
Jets'
to
perform
here.
We
all
took
the
mini
van
and
drove
the
hour
and
a
half
journey
to
the
beach.
Upon
our
arrival
I
noticed
the
area
was
a
hive
of
activity,
hundreds
of
people
arriving
and
'helping
'cars
to
get
parked.
We
entered
the
area
which
had
been
cordoned
off
to
paying
members
,and
was
greeted
by
the
noise
of
many
bars
lined
along
the
beach.
It
was
a
pleasant
sight
as
we
strolled
along
the
beach
checking
out
the
various
bars.
Some
were
displaying
groups
and
dancers
which
we
found
impressive
and
selected
one
such
location.
The
fresh
fish
coated
with
a
hot
chilli
sauce
was
wonderful
and
enjoyed
by
all.
The
cold
beer
made
the
day
perfect
as
I
sat
amazed
at
the
fitness
of
the
male
dancers
up
on
stage.