Aims And Objectives

The main objective was to conduct a risk assessment of the expedition route with a view of returning to Nigeria in 2004 to conduct a full expedition.It was our intention to do this by retracing the route taken by Richard Lander from Badagry on the South coast to New Bussa in the North. Upon our arrival to make contact with the Emir to ascertain the existence of a silver commemorative coin, given by Richard to the Emir of Bussa in 1830. If time permitted to recee the Niger  heading South and to visit Fernando Po to locate the grave of Richard Lander. Our aim was to build positive relations with both local and influential people to promote the expedition within Nigeria which will be called : ''The Goodwill Expedition".

                                               The Beginning And Arrival At Lagos Airport

                                                             

On the 1st March 2002  with a certain amount of apprehension we all set off from Gatwick to Lagos.
I knew Dave, Viv and Bryan from previous trips and knew they could be relied upon.The new member of the team was Ken whom I had met on only two previous occasions . I had been immediately impressed with him and knew straight away his importance of being with us on this trip.  His main advice to me which he repeated on many occasions ‘Steve, just keep an open mind! 

It is necessary to obtain a written invitation from a  Nigerian resident in which to undertake any form of expedition. In our case, Ken contacted a relative called Mr. Benn Onweuegbusi, a barrister within the Supreme Court of Nigeria who kindly sent the required invitation, essential when applying for the visa.

Lagos airport had been immortalized with a television series a few years ago so we were expecting unique difficulties. Ken was a regular at this location and through his direction we maneuvered ourselves through all the access and control points with ease. It was a pleasure to witness a master at work as Ken sought the  most senior official, who helped us to progress through the check points with ease ,complete with  baggage.

We were met by an old University friend of Kens' called Sam together with his prized mini bus. Sam welcomed us with a smile, he was small in stature and had a slight limp as a result of an accident many years ago. It was obvious by their greeting that Ken and Sam were good friends. Ken introduced us and I felt happy with his choice of driver. However, driving in  Nigeria was very different from London as we discovered in the days to come.

We had arranged to hire both Sam and bus for the next two weeks. At a hotly negotiated session later that evening a fee had been agreed with Sam. On closer examination of his van, it could be seen that the windows had been cut out from what was once a van. The rear seats had been added later on, I noticed the tube steel along the edges of the seats instead of foam. No seat belts were visible and the idea of air conditioning had instantly evaporated. This was to be our main method of transport for the next 1500 Km.

It was dark as we left the airport and the images a new arrival to Lagos has apparently stays with you for some time. As we drove through congested streets at a slow speed I could see the dark shadows of many people. Walking and talking, sitting and watching, thousands of people by the road side going about their everyday business. Occasionally their faces would light up as they passed a fire glowing from an oil drum. There were many such fires along the roadside providing both warmth and light to these street people.  With over 10 million people living within the city itself you soon understand the difficulties the people of Lagos have to endure.

                                 The Team Meet Mike Okiro 'Commissioner Of Police'

                                                                             
We spent Four days in Lagos planning and preparing for our departure. Ken had made arrangements for us to meet Mr. Mike Okiro, Commissioner of Police for the State of Lagos. After a wait outside his office we all went inside where he was still involved with another meeting. The office walls were lined with wooden panels and was impressive. Our turn to speak came and I outlined the reason for our visit with an emphasis on the ‘goodwill’ . I had conducted my research through the wonders of the Internet prior to our visit to Nigeria. Discussions with Ken indicated he may offer Police Protection during our stay, the research suggested the relationship between the police and public in Lagos is somewhat different to our experience within the UK. We had decided if offered protection, I would thank the Commissioner but preferred they continue policing where they are obviously needed. We gave various gifts to Mr. Mike Okiro as a gesture of goodwill, related our commiseration's to the families of the people who perished in the  recent ammunitions explosion, thanked him for his time and left. With the many issues Mr. Okiro was dealing with at this most difficult time it was good of him to see us. Our thanks again to Ken who was able to make these arrangements.

                                                         Robbers and Rotarians

During the next few days in Lagos we continued our efforts in building positive relations with people. One such example was attending a Rotary Club meeting in Lagos, although not a member himself Bryan was referred by a friend. With Dave and Ken absent from the group we drove to Victoria island in Sam's bus. It was obvious that stationary in a traffic jam allowed street traders to ply their goods far easier. It was here that two such beggars jumped up to both the drivers side and my side at the front windows demanding money. I gave both beggars 300 Nira the equivalent of  about £3, a drug crazed look in their eyes was a little worrying. When the beggar next to Sam began threatening a knife I lost my cool and starting shouting. They both suddenly jumped off the bus and we continued on our way. Sam later stated that this was the first time he had experienced such an incident in Lagos. He also explained how important it was not to retaliate with such people, desperate and homeless they could react badly towards such action. To talk with them and offer ‘something’ without the need for violence could in fact save your ‘life’.

Within 20 minutes we were at the Rotary Club meeting singing about brotherly love and ‘goodwill to’ fellow man. Viv, Bryan and Ken often recall that meeting with barristers, bankers and smartly dressed Lagos business officials. I believe it was the unaccompanied singing of My Grandfather’s Clock or My Bonny Lies Over the Ocean which brings a smile to each of our faces! However, it was an excellent opportunity to meet these men and we exchanged business cards accordingly.

Lagos museum was a little disappointing with very few exhibits, however I did learn about the Benin bronzes. During 1897 the British conducted a trading expedition and visited Benin, after the advance party were killed by the locals, the British massacred the city stealing all the prized bronzes. These bronzes have since been displayed within the British Museum,  despite numerous attempts by Nigeria to have them returned.It would appear Nigeria needs to convince the British Museum that should the bronzes be returned they would be displayed in a secure environment . I fear this dilemma will run for a few more years to come but feel a gesture of  the return of a single Benin Bronze would be a positive move by the British Museum.

                                                        The Kola Nut Ceremony

                                                                           

It was  a welcome pleasure to meet Ken’s family in Lagos, his Mother made us dinner and we met some of Kens' university friends. We discussed our proposed journey together with the hopes for 2004, as the light dimmed we tied our head torches onto the heads of bottles to talk over our map and of our proposed journey.

Before we departed Lagos we were invited to visit an Uncle of Ken’s on the outskirts of Lagos. It was a difficult house to find in a poorly lit street but eventually located an impressive house. We were all invited into a large living room and took our seats in armchairs and sofas situated around the edge of the room facing inwards. Ken's Aunt offered beers and we readily accepted, we met two young men smartly dressed in traditional Nigerian clothes, which looked cool to wear and brightly coloured. They were both cousins of Kens', one of whom had recently qualified as a barrister in the UK

Ken indicated that his Uncle was about to come downstairs and that he was a highly respected person within his community i.e. he was a ‘Chief’. Therefore as a mark of our respect we should address him as  Nwa-ka-Ibe'e which translates into 'One who is greater than his friends' I realized he was serious and it was essential we adhere to his instructions. As he entered the room and took his seat next to mine, I noticed it was raised slightly giving a heightened position. He shook all our hands and after a few minutes began a Kola nut ceremony. As he spoke of ‘God’, the British and praying for our safe return home, I was moved at this humble yet traditional welcome. It contained words which cut through race and cultures and left a message of prayer, faith and kindness to fellow man.

To summon his wife Nwa-ka-Ibe'e pressed a buzzer positioned in the side of his seat, a smartly dressed  lady appeared from the kitchen with a bowl to clean his hands. Part of the ceremony involved the eating of the Kola nut or Betel nut. As we all took a small piece from the plate and placed it inside our mouths we all shared the same taste. It was very bitter and quite unpleasant  but we all politely finished the nut and washed it down with beer. I liked Kens' Uncle and hoped one day to meet him again.
The journey back to the hotel that night lasted about 90 minutes and we all kept chatting about the days events together with the following days departure. It was about 1a.m. and neither of us felt tired, it was at that point that Ken informed us of the side effects of the Kola nut, it acts as a stimulant similar to the Coca leaf in Peru. Who needs Red-Bull!

                                                           An Important Lesson

I was glad to leave Lagos as we departed towards Badagry the following morning, it was a hot and claustrophobic city with poor infrastructure and too many people. I do not wish to dwell on our bad experiences and the crime within the City, because all Cities have their share of crime. There is a different attitude of the people in Lagos, Ken would say ‘’There is English time and African time’’. It is this indifference towards time keeping that can be frustrating. It was here where I also learned an important lesson, Sam would often be abrupt when speaking to me, I liked Sam and could not understand why on occasions he would speak to me in such a manner. To make a point I decided to speak to him in the same abrupt way, he just fell about laughing. When I questioned  as to the reasons for his laughter he calmly smiled and said ‘’ English people never speak like that only African’s, English people say ‘please’ and ‘thank you’.’’ As I watched Sam speak to Ken or his family in the same abrupt manner I realised my error. I had been comparing my own standards to Sam’s and thinking his manner is rude when in fact within Nigeria it is perfectly normal and no offence is indeed  meant.

                                                        Bar Beach

Prior to my departure from England I had been speaking with a professional Rock and Roll group called 'The Jets'.I had approached Bob Cotton together with his brothers Ray and Tony to consider joining the expedition and possibly playing a 'gig', either in New Bussa or Lagos. This may sound like a bizarre idea but it would focus attention and promote media interest. Therefore Ken suggested we visit 'Bar Beach' in Lagos, an area in which to both  relax and enjoy some African culture in the way of food and music, also an ideal opportunity to seek a possible location for 'The Jets' to perform here.

We all took the mini van and drove the hour and a half journey to the beach. Upon our arrival I noticed the area was a hive of activity, hundreds of people arriving and 'helping 'cars to get parked. We entered the area which had been cordoned off to paying members ,and was greeted by the noise of many bars lined along the beach. It was a pleasant sight as we strolled along the beach checking out the various bars. Some  were displaying groups and dancers which we found impressive and selected one such location. The fresh fish coated with a hot chilli sauce was wonderful and enjoyed by all. The cold beer made the day perfect as I sat amazed at the fitness of the male dancers up on stage.